Our WW1 Trail

Derek’s grandfather served on the Western Front in 1918 toward the end of World War One. He had just turned 18 and was one of the few survivors of his battalion. He went to hospital firstly by being wounded in his hands, and then succumbing to dysentery.

Two of my mother’s father’s uncles and three of my father’s uncles served in the Western Front. Only one of the five returned.

Over four days, we followed the Australian Remembrance Trail along the Western Front, staying in Ypres, Doignies, and Villers Bretonneux.

Towns on the front lines in France and Belgium suffered greatly. Armies of both sides lived among the people. When the German armies retreated to form a shorter line across the front, with more defensible concrete bunkers, they burned everything in the towns in their wake, taking boys of the towns as young as 14 as prisoners of war. Many of their own soldiers were conscripts of this age.

Australia had the only major army in the war comprised of volunteers. As the war drew on, this war of attrition was losing men. Conscription was voted on twice in Australia via referendum and rejected. The fortunate soldiers were coming home, and some sense of the carnage was making its way into the Australian consciousness, despite the public relations spin of their governments.

Over 46,000 Australians died on the Western Front, many buried where they fell. In total, over 10,000,000 soldiers and 7,000,000 civilians died. Most Germans believed they were fighting a defensive war and in Germany, there were over 700,000 deaths from starvation.

With a fuller knowledge of the politics and leadership behind this horrific carnage, I now have more understanding of the British and French policy of appeasement which allowed the rise of Hitler and the Nazis.

Ypres – A town of spirit

Destroyed during WW1, Ypres has all the appearance of a medieval town, as the proud and resilient citizens decided to re-create all the buildings as close to possible to their originals.

The Memorial to the Missing is located at the Menin Gate in honour of the British and Commonwealth soldiers who left for the front line through the Menin Gate and whose graves are unknown. The Last Post Ceremony has been held here every evening since 1928 (over 30,000 times), except for the four and a half years the town was occupied by the Germans in WW2. The service was resumed on the evening Ypres was liberated by Polish forces, despite heavy fighting continuing in parts of the town.

On the day we arrived in Ypres, we went to the Flanders Field museum, walked along the old walls marking the perimeter of the town and then attended the Last Post service. Traffic was stopped, and the area fell quiet for the ceremony, led by a cadet group.

The Christmas Day truce of 1914 was marked in an exhibit at the museum. Pope Benedict XV called for a Christmas truce, but it was officially rejected.  However, over two-thirds of the soldiers on the front-line participated in the non-official truce, in most cases initiated by German singing of carols and crossing into No-Man’s Land.  The command in both sides ensured future mingling of troops was not repeated, as it would undermine the morale (i.e. willingness to kill each other) of the soldiers.

We self-catered most meals on this holiday but couldn’t resist the excellent Captain Cook Restaurant. Derek left his beloved hat here and (though not nearly so sorrowful about this event as Derek) I did not contribute to this event through any action, or non-action.

We were delayed leaving the next day due to the excellence of the chocolate and necessity of sampling a variety of produce.

Passchendaele

The Battle of Passchendaele is one of the major battles of WW1, first edged on my consciousness through the harrowing war poetry I studied in school.

“I died in hell –
(They called it Passchendaele).”
Siegfried Sassoon

More than 300,000 allied soldiers died in the 2017 Battle of Passchendaele, many drowning in mud. Other soldiers returned without feet. Tyne Cot Cemetery is at the site of Passchendaele and is the largest Commonwealth War Graves Cemetery in the world. Passchendaele was the first WW1 site on our trail and I immediately realised we would have to revise our itinerary to allow more time for reflection. (We ended up missing Versailles. It was going to be hard to stomach the self-aggrandisement of the ‘Sun King’ and subsequent French kings, after thinking about the suffering on the trenches).

The trenches of Passchendaele have been replicated at the near-by museum and it is possible to walk through, giving an idea of the otherwise unimaginable living conditions of the soldiers.

Tyne Cot Cemetery, Passchendaele Museum and other sites are part of the ‘Legacy’ cycle route and we talked to a Belgium couple doing the route at our accommodation over breakfast. It is easy to hire bicycles and if we were to do the trip again, we would probably include time for this.